Whether it’s classic vanilla or matcha ice cream with chocolate-covered crickets, the Portland-based ice cream chain Salt & Straw has made quite a name for itself. They release new and unique flavors every month, so this May, I tried their five limited-time “May flowers” flavors.
PISTACHIO WITH SAFFRON AND ROSE WATER:
Let’s just say it was a rocky road for this ice cream flavor. The pistachio taste was decent, but the saffron completely overpowered everything. Saffron is a spice often used very sparingly in cooking. Needless to say, they used far too much. The entire rose water flavor fell off a cliff and died, and the saffron was obnoxiously present. This ice cream was truly awful. (0.5/3 Scoop Score)
JASMINE MILK TEA WITH ALMOND STRACCIATIELLA
If this ice cream was a person, it would be that dude who comes to school dances in his pajamas. This flavor took me by surprise as soon as I opened the pint, as it had no strong smell. As someone who loves milk tea, especially with boba, I came in with high expectations and was very underwhelmed. Milk tea simply does not work in ice cream of this form. However, I could taste a little of the almond, and the stracciatella (the chocolate chunks) had a good ratio that added a unique taste and flavor. Overall this ice cream was disappointing as a milk tea enthusiast, while the stracciatella was the highlight. (2/3 Scoop Score)
LEMON MARIGOLD AMARO SHERBET
The lemon was clearly the main flavor, and it was fantastic. The amaro only came out as an aftertaste, and I thought it added a good balance. The twist was the marshmallows, which I discovered halfway through tasting it. They threw off the texture a little bit, but were generally a pleasant surprise. I would indeed recommend this flavor. This flavor does contain trace amounts of alcohol from the amaro, which is a type of liqueur, but the man who scooped it assured me it was completely appropriate for those under 21. (3/3 Scoop score)
RHUBARB CRUMBLE WITH TOASTED ANISE
At first, this one tasted like plain old vanilla ice cream, but the rhubarb came on later and had great flavor. The anise, the plant from which licorice is made, was not very strong, but I preferred it that way. There were streaks of red throughout the ice cream, which made it very visually appealing. Plus, Salt & Straw decided to throw in some crust-esque chunks, which made it feel even more like rhubarb crumble. The licorice snuck up on me as I ate, but it was never overpowering. The flavors worked well together and the crumbly texture was the best part. (2/3 scoop score)
SPINACH CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE TAHINI FUDGE
The tahini, a paste made from sesame seeds often used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, added a buttery yet tangy flavor. The spinach is there just enough to have an impact on the texture but not the taste, as it made the ice cream rougher. I walked into the shop with low expectations for this flavor, but the sweet and savory mix of spinach and chocolate worked quite well, and the tahini spiced it up. There were even some chocolate chunks in there, which had a pronounced flavor. The tahini had a bit of a funky aftertaste, and it stayed with me a little too long, but overall it was a great experience. (2.5/3 scoop score)